For a general overview of the food scene in Hat Yai see Hat Yai Food and Restaurant Listings Page 1. The following restaurants are some of the places I've eaten at in Hat Yai.
Comments: Quite a long way out of town (opposite the temple shown on the map), this is another Thai version of a farang steak house.
These places are popular with Thais and visitors alike. The steaks they sell are normally local produce (which tend to be a bit tough) but imported steaks are often available at a higher price. This particular place also has crocodile and ostrich on the menu.
Compared to somewhere like Sizzler, the food isn't as good but usually it's quite a bit cheaper.
Being out of town it means that there aren't that many foreign customers, and thus the menu only has a limited number of items described in English. If you can't read Thai the staff may be able to help you. However, I can't guarantee this.
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Comments: There are quite a few Thai-style steak restaurants in Hat Yai. Some will suit Western tastes and some won't. Some concentrate on being cheap, while others concentrate more on the taste of the food.
This is one of the better places but it is quite a long way out of Hat Yai. It is located on the old road between Hat Yai and Songkhla (Karnchanawanich Road). As you go towards Songkhla from Hat Yai, it is on the right.
I've only been there using personal transport. However, a lot of public transport in the form of buses, sawng-thaews and minivans pass the reastaurant every day as they go between Hat Yai and Songkhla so in theory it should be easy to get to if you don't have your own transport.
Apart from the fact it is located next to a busy road, the setting is quite pleasant and if you have been stuck in Hat Yai for any length of time it feels good to get away.
They serve beef, chicken, pork, fish and lamb steaks. They also have Thai-style sausages and a good selection of Thai food. I order the lamb every time because it's quite difficult to get in Hat Yai. What gives this place an advantage over many of the other steak houses is that everything is barbecued on a charcoal grill.
It's a big place on a lot of land. As you go in you see the restaurant, but this is only half as there is another identical restaurant on the other side.
As long as you don't mind travelling a little way to get there, it's well worth a visit.
From Tuesday to Friday the opening times are 10:00-14:00 and 16:00-21:00. On Saturdays and Sundays the restaurant is open from 10:00-21:30. It is closed on Mondays.
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Comments: Not only are there a lot of Muslims living in southern Thailand, but also quite a few visitors to Hat Yai from Malaysia are Muslim (the majority of Malaysian visitors seem to be Chinese).
One benefit is the added colour the Muslim culture adds to Hat Yai and another is being able to enjoy Muslim cuisine. A benefit to Muslims is that finding Halal restaurants in Hat Yai isn't difficult.
Sumatra is located next to the Pakistani mosque in the fresh market area. It's also very close to the Hat Yai Holiday hotel. The restaurant is fairly large and offers standard Thai food as well as a few Muslim specialities. Everything is Halal, of course.
I don't know if it gets busy at certain times but whenever I have walked past there are very few customers there. The food is OK but the kaaw gairng is either a little overpriced or they decided to charge me extra because I was a farang.
In addition to paying more than I expected, the staff weren't very friendly either so this place has now been removed from my Christmas card list. You may have a different experience.
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Comments: 2gether is no more. Shortly after it closed for business, I wasn't sure if it was going to be refurbished and reopened. It wasn't. Along with Orkar Part 2 (a bar with very attractive hostesses just over the road to 2gether) both businesses closed down and merged to form Sa-by Bar, a new venture in a new location.
2gether (and the restaurant next door, Goo) were demolished and an apartment building sprung up.
I will leave this entry here in case anyone is searching for 2together and can't figure out where it went.
Comments: Foreigners tend to enjoy Thai food after midday but most farang stomachs prefer toast, eggs and sausage in the mornings, rather than rice and curry.
This isn't a problem in areas of Thailand with lots of foreigners but it can be a little problematic in Hat Yai. There are a few places that do a fairly decent English breakfast and this is one of them. Raan Taaworn Ocha is located almost opposite the Hat Yai Hospital building on Niphat Songkhrao 1 Road.
For breakfast they do various combinations of eggs, sausages, toast, French toast, sausages and coffee. Their freshly squeezed orange juice is also good.
Despite the Western food breakfast menu, this is very much a Thai restaurant. There is no sign outside in English saying 'English Breakfast' and very little English is spoken inside. If you manage to find it, ordering is easy because they have photographs on the menu!
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Comments: I first became aware of this restaurant from its prominent advertisement on the local free map (which is testament to the power of advertising). It is very popular with visiting Chinese Malaysians but I haven't eaten there myself. I include it only because of its apparent popularity.
Their advertising style is a bit of a mystery. In the time-honoured Thai tradition of writing advertising copy in Thaiglish, they claim 'Clean food good taste in Low Price'.
They claim to serve delicious Betong Chinese food. Betong is an area in Yala province which I believe has quite a large Chinese population. Presumably the Chinese inhabitants of Betong developed their own cuisine which this restaurant now serves in Hat Yai?
The business card says 'Original of Betong Chicken Slide'. Now, perhaps those clever Betong inhabitants created a chicken dish which they named 'Chicken Slide', which Tai See Hee now serves in Hat Yai? I don't know. I'm guessing again.
The final mystery on the business card is 'Guaranteed by Mae Choi Nang Ram'. What is guaranteed and who/what is Mae Choi Nang Ram? How does the guarantee work? If I don't enjoy the 'Original of Betong Chicken Slide' will Mae Choi Nang Ram give me my money back?
If you have answers to any of these questions, please let me know.
Update: A reader living in Malaysia who visited Hat Yai was able to throw some light on these mysteries. Thank you!
Firstly, a classic Thai spelling mistake. Apparently, the restaurant should be advertising 'Chicken Slices' (or perhaps 'Sliced Chicken') and not 'Chicken Slide'.
Secondly, I am told that Chinese food in Betong is famous. However, it always makes me suspicious when you have to be told something is famous. If it's that famous you should know already, shouldn't you?
Thirdly, I am told that the mysterious Mae Choi Nang Ram is a celebrity food critic in Thailand so if the food is good enough at Tai See Hee for her, it is good enough for anyone.
Now we all know.
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Address: Thamanoonvithee Road, Hat Yai, Songkhla, 90110. Map:Map 4
Deg/Min/Sec
GPS
Latitude
N 07° 00' 17.5"
N 07° 00.292'
Longitude
E 100° 29' 26.8"
E 100° 29.447'
Comments: Taste Add is located right at the other end of Thamanoonvithee Road to the railway station. It is a lot closer to the university than it is to central Hat Yai.
It's a Thai run restaurant that serves exclusively Western food but the food is different - and better - than the other cheap steak houses in Hat Yai. The BBQ sauce they put on their grilled chicken is superb and their other dishes are also very good.
They even serve a German-style pork knuckle (Schweinshaxe), and as well as beer you can order wine with your meal. The owner spent some time in New Zealand and understands ahaan farang. Most Thais don't, and when they prepare foreign food it is a poor imitation. Also, foreign food tends to be too sweet when cooked by Thais.
I would go as far as to say that Taste Add probably serves the best Western food in Hat Yai.
Local meat is usually used for the steaks, but imported cuts of meat are also available - at a higher price, of course.
The negative points are that it gets extremely busy at times and the food can take a very long time to arrive after ordering. The poor waitress there works incredibly hard. She can't speak or hear so don't try speaking to her in Thai - even if you can.
There is no air-conditioning and only the front of the restaurant is open which means that there is no through-breeze. There are fans inside but during the hot season (most of the year in Hat Yai) it can get quite uncomfortable. Taste Add only opens in the evening - from around 6pm - there being no lunch service.
Update: Taste Add had a bit of a makeover in January 2009. The spiral staircase that went up to the second floor seating area that was never used has been removed, as have all the pictures and posters that used to hang on the walls.
Some of the character of the restaurant has gone but overall it looks better. The poor waitress still flies around as much as she ever did and it still takes a long time from ordering your meal to it actually arriving.
The food is still very good and the slow service is only due to the restaurant's continued popularity with both foreigners and local Thais.
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Address: Raj Uthit Road, Hat Yai, Songkhla, 90110 Map:Map 1
Comments: The Malaysian tourists love these big, outdoor seafood restaurants and there are quite a few in Hat Yai but most are a little way out of town. This one is near Hansa Plaza, Hat Yai's well-known transvestite cabaret.
Fish and seafood are displayed on ice at the front of the restaurant: the same type of thing that can be found in every farang tourist resort in Thailand. You choose what you want and it is taken to the kitchen to be cooked.
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Comments: This is another one of my favourite places in Hat Yai. As far as I know, it is the only Vietnamese restaurant in town. I have never been to Vietnam and this is the only Vietnamese restaurant I've eaten at so I can't make any comparisons or say how authentic it is but the food is delicious.
After eating thousands of Thai meals, something slightly different makes a pleasant change. The food is unmistakably Asian but distinctly different to Thai. There are lots of subtle flavours and it doesn't seem quite as spicy as most Thai food.
The restaurant itself is like a conventional Western restaurant, most noticeably it is indoors. This doesn't sound very significant but while eating in there it struck me that the majority of Thai places I eat at are outdoors. The staff are extremely friendly and gracious and although it is more expensive than dining at the average Thai eatery it is by no means expensive. Highly recommended.
Tong Poon is owned by the same people who own the Post Laser Disc bar.
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Comments: This is actually three restaurants but they all sell Japanese food, they are all located next to each other in a little cluster in the same place, and they are all owned by the same people.
You will find them at the rear of Diana Department store, on the ground floor next to the Se-ed book shop.
Hat Yai has gone crazy for Japanese food, and in the last few years a lot of restaurants have opened selling sushi and other Japanese goodies.
These three restaurants are slightly different. Umami has a set menu with various Japanese dishes. Daidomon offers a Japanese buffet, while at Suki Shabu you get raw meat and vegetables which you then boil in a pot at your table.
The prices are cheaper than Fuji, but more expensive than some other places. However, in Diana the cleanliness and hygiene are a lot better than some of the cheaper places.
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Comments: Washington is yet another Hat Yai eating establishment that is distinctly Chinese. It is directed very much at Malaysian tourists, especially Chinese Malaysians, but I suspect it is also popular with local Thai Chinese.
It is located just underneath a hotel that is popular with visiting Malaysians, it has large round tables that are popular with groups of Chinese eating out, and it serves very typical Asian-style Chinese food.
It seems to be quite well known locally for its Peking Duck. I haven't tried this myself yet but it looked and smelled very good. This restaurant doesn't appear suitable for those eating alone but if you are going out to eat in a large group it could be worth a try.
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Address: Saengchan Road (between Saeng Sri and Suphasarnrangsan roads) Map:Map 1
Deg/Min/Sec
GPS
Latitude
N 07° 00' 35.1"
N 07° 00.586'
Longitude
E 100° 28' 19.0"
E 100° 28.317'
Comments: This is a curious place. The Malaysian/Singaporean weekend tourist trade in Hat Yai is located in a very small area around Lee Gardens. To get a piece of the action it is vital for businesses to be in the right location. Anything just a little way outside gets ignored and that is why real-estate and rental prices are sky high around the Lee Gardens area.
Businesses in central Hat Yai targeting the Malaysian/Singaporean tourists tend to invest quite a lot because those tourists expect fairly high standards. Shops and businesses elsewhere in Hat Yai tend to cater for locals who don't have deep pockets so everything is done on a budget.
Any new restaurants that open up outside the central area are usually located in a concrete shell with poured concrete floors and shutters at the front. Plastic tables and chairs are the norm, with the cooking done at the front of the restaurant instead of in a separate kitchen.
Whisker defies all the rules. It is owned (according to business-minded friends of mine in Hat Yai) by two brothers who inherited a lot of money. Apparently they spent about Bt12 million fitting out the restaurant, and it shows.
The tables and chairs are cast iron and very heavy. When you pull out the seats to sit down they feel as if they have been glued to the floor. What looks like ornamental New Orleans style cast iron metalwork is used throughout the restaurant but it is actually aluminium.
The decor has lots of attractive wooden features, including one wall full of wine racks (which have yet to be stocked). There are flat-screen TVs hanging from the ceilings and big fans with water nozzles to deliver a fine, cooling spray in the hot season. No expense has been spared.
The menu started off with Mediterranean food, such as Greek kebabs and salads; and Spanish dishes such as paella. The pasta dishes were cheap at first but on my second visit all the prices had been raised significantly. Stickers had been placed over the menu prices doubling most of them.
They import meat and even salad items from abroad. One of the waitresses told me that salad tastes better grown in the cool climate of the Genting Highlands in Malaysia.
Later they added pizza to the menu and after that an Indian chef, who had been working in a hotel in Bangkok, arrived to cook Indian food. The owner asked me if I knew anyone who could cook as he wanted to add roast beef and Yorkshire pudding to the menu.
It's an ambitious place but whenever I have been there the food has never quite lived up to what it should be like. I was looking forward to a great-tasting home made Italian pizza but it wasn't the best I'd tasted. The paella was basically seafood fried rice which can be bought at any Thai restaurant for Bt30 but at Whisker it is a lot more expensive and didn't taste like authentic paella.
Some of the food is really good though. The Greek and niçoise salads, and some of the main dishes are excellent.
Update May 2006: Part of the restaurant has now been glassed-in and air-conditioning installed. Money seems to be no object at this place. However, on a Friday evening visit when central Hat Yai was absolutely packed with Malaysian weekend tourists, Whisker was once again empty.
As I said above, the location chosen for this type of restaurant is very strange. The Malaysian weekend tourists will travel a little outside of the centre of town to eat at the big seafood restaurants they like so much but apart from that they just stay within a few hundred yards of Lee Gardens Plaza.
When I left I was given a handful of promotional flyers and asked to give them to my friends. The lack of business, and how to attract more customers, is therefore a big concern to them. It's a great place and I would like to see them make a success of it but whether that will happen, I don't know. It will be interesting to see what happens next.
Update November 2006: Business in Whisker (like business in most of Hat Yai) has plummeted since the September bomb incidents. It's a real shame. I went back because I wanted some Indian food only to find that their Indian chef has left, and as a result there is no longer any Indian food offered.
The food is still good even though the menu has been reduced. The general lack of customers doesn't do very much for the atmosphere but despite the lack of business the owners are still quite ambitious.
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Address: Yor Island
Apart from the constant heat, it is easy in Hat Yai to forget you are in a tropical country. Hat Yai is convenient in many respects but it is hardly beautiful.
Just a short drive away - not even as far as Songkhla town - is a small island called Yor which has all the ingredients of a tropical island. There is lush vegetation (including palm trees and fruit plantations), a small weaving industry, and a thriving fishery industry.
The island is connected to the mainland at either end by two long bridges, and the road through the island is part of a major highway. Most traffic just goes straight through but on the island next to the main road are several good seafood restaurants. (There are also good restaurants elsewhere on the island.)
These places are quite big and they look out on to the inland sea. The location is relaxing and the food is good. Locals from Hat Yai and Songkhla drive out to eat there, and these eateries are well known to groups of Malaysian tourists who arrive in their big tour buses.
Ranu restaurant even has a shop in the front that sells the bags of cashew nuts and dried food that the Malaysian tourists love to buy in Hat Yai.
Here are the phone numbers. It seems pointless providing addresses because the restaurants are all on the same road, and having an address won't make them easier to find. As you drive on to Yor island from Hat Yai, they are located after the market on the right hand side.
If you find yourself driving over the next bridge, then you have gone too far. Getting there by public transport is easy. Just take a Songkhla-bound bus or minivan and get off at the big intersection for Ko Yo.
From there, hop on a sawng-thaew to get over to the island.
Up until now, my favourite has been Sirada. Yon Yuuk only opened in February 2009 so I haven't had a chance to try it yet but the setting is very pleasant. Yon Yuuk seems to be more geared up for evening diners, whereas the other two seem to cater more for daytime tourists. I could be wrong but that's how it looks.
There is another restaurant on Yor Island called Go Miang. It's smaller and less touristy than the restaurants on the main road but it's right on the waterfront where you get a great view of the mangroves. There is a delightful breeze that comes off the water and even on the hottest of days it feels quite cool.
The telephone number for Go Miang is 074 450257 and the GPS coordinates are:
Deg/Min/Sec
GPS
Latitude
N 07° 09' 28.6"
N 07° 09.476'
Longitude
E 100° 32' 10.8"
E 100° 32.179'
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