South Africa

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German version of this page

French version of this page

German version of this page

Page last updated 9 September 2006

I finally made it to South Africa in April 2001 after years of deliberating. It was a place that had always appealed to me but I had some major doubts about personal security from stories I had heard in the media. Having friends there helped and talking to people who had been there on vacation made me realise it wasn't quite as bad as the image portrayed by the media. I had a really enjoyable vacation in Colorado last September driving around the state watching and photographing the wildlife. This whetted my appetite to see the big game and where better than Africa? I decided it was time to make the trip. It is still a troubled country in many respects, politically and socially, but has an immense amount to offer visitors. Hopefully the information and images below will help to convey this.

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Lucky Shamrock

Luck

Lucky Shamrock
Luck is a factor with everything. I've travelled a lot and sometimes things work out ... and sometimes they don't. And there's not much you can do about it! This was one time when things went decidedly my way. Right from the start when South African Airlines decided to upgrade me to business class for my outward flight I had a feeling this was going to be my trip.

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Cape Town

I stayed in Green Point at the Brenwin Guest House which is a comfortable, well run place with friendly staff and is conveniently located within easy walking distance of the V&A Waterfront. Not only did they arrange my accommodation in Cape Town but helped me set up tours and helped with accommodation for my Garden Route trip. Thanks Chantell for all of your help!

Brenwin Guest House
Brenwin guest house, Cape Town Brenwin guest house, Cape Town
I was in Cape Town at the beginning and end of my trip. While there I did not rent a car but chose to use tour companies, taxis and my legs. I went on a tour of Cape Town on my first day which provided a good overview of the city and took in Bo-Kaap (the Malay district), Table Mountain, the government buildings and the Company's Gardens.  The tour went out as far as Table View where, as the name suggests, it is possible to get a classic view of the mountain. Unfortunately, on this day the visibility was not good.

When I returned to Cape Town I took another tour out to the peninsular and Cape Point. The tour goes down the east coast, through Simon's Town, with a stop at The Boulders to see the Jackass penguin colony, and on to Cape Point. At Cape Point there was a longer stop with enough time to take the funicular railway to the top and look around. This is not the southernmost point of the African continent, that title goes to Cape Agulhas. Going back to Cape Town was up the west coast and through some nice residential areas with views looking out over the Atlantic.

My friends in Johannesburg have a friend in Cape Town who very kindly offered to show me the wine regions around Franschhoek. This was a great day out, first visiting a wine and cheese festival and then several wine farms. The area is incredibly beautiful (and the wine tastes pretty good too!).

Images from around Cape Town and the peninsular
The colourful Bo-Kaap Malay district in Cape Town

The colourful Bo-Kaap Malay district in Cape Town

Cape Point lighthouse, South Africa

 Sealion - Cape Town, South Africa Gyrid and Phil on Table Mountain, Cape Town
Me on Table Mountain, Cape Town The Victoria and Albert waterfront, Cape Town

Jackass penguin - Cape Point, South Africa

Franschhoek vineyard in the wine region near Cape Town

 Sealion - Cape Town, South Africa

Some facts about Cape Town

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 False Bay got its name when sailors returning from the East thought they'd made it around the tip of Africa, only to find themselves in Muizenberg!
Star The first wine was produced by the Dutch settlers in 1659, with the pleasing results recorded in van Riebeeck's journal.
Star The tame grey squirrels that delight visitors to the Company's Garden are indigenous to North America and were introduced to Cape Town in the 1890s by Cecil Rhodes.
Star The tablecloth on Table Mountain referred to by Capetonians is the white cloud that seems to pour over the flat edge of the mountain when the wind blows from the southeast.
Star The world's first human heart transplant took place at Cape Town's Groote Schuur Hospital in 1967.
Star The noonday gun has been heard in Cape Town since 1798 when it was fired to enable ships in the bay to set their chronometers so that navigational calculations at sea would be correct.
Star There are many shipwrecks around South Africa's rocky coasts - over the centuries more than 1300 ships have been wrecked, many of them off the "Cape of Storms".

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Knysna and the Garden Route

From Cape Town I hired a car to explore the Garden Route. I had not decided on an exact route but had planned to go as far as Knysna. My first stop was Hermanus, famous for its whale watching. I checked in at Kenjockity guest house where the owner, Jim Wepener, is a font of local knowledge and has been instrumental in promoting the town's whale watching tourist industry. I did not see any of the southern right whales (named by early whalers as the "right" one to hunt because they float when killed and have high oild yields), probably because it was too early in the season, but spent a pleasant day strolling along the cliffs and watching the crayfishermen.

From Hermanus I drove to Bredasdorp and then cut inland to Swellendam. From there I went through Suurbraak and Barrydale and then on to Calitzdorp where I decided to stay for the night. This route goes through some scenic mountain passes that had apparently been built by Italian POWs. The stonework bears testament to the fine Italian workmanship. Under normal circumstances I would probably have gone on to Oudtshoorn, the ostrich capital, to stay for the night but there was no accommodation due to a big Afrikaans arts festival taking place. In Calitzdorp it was another guest who recommended a place to stay in Knysna called the Pumula Lodge, run by a friend of hers. I made a reservation and set off the next morning for Knysna, through George and Wilderness.

Upon arriving at Knysna I was enthralled. The place just has a great feel to it and I'd wished I hadn't stopped on the way but just hammered down the N2 straight from Cape Town to maximise my time in Knysna. After a bit of searching around I located Pumula Lodge. The lodge is a lovely building with a beautifully kept garden. Peter Ellis, who owns the place, is a very friendly chap and an expert on birds, of which there are plenty that visit the garden. It was great just to sit on the balcony and watch the many species that visit, including Knysna Louries, Hoopoes and a Great Eagle Owl.

Pumula Lodge, Knysna
Pumula Lodge - Knysna, South Africa Pumula Lodge - Knysna, South Africa Pumula Lodge - Knysna, South Africa

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Johannesburg

I am fortunate to have friends in Johannesburg who I stayed with. Had it not been for them I doubt I would have gone. It's probably fair to say that Jo'burg has a bit of a reputation and I have to admit to feeling a little apprehensive about going. However, I was looked after from start to finish and had an enjoyable time. Thank you Gareth and Gill!

Images from around Jo'burg
Security - Johannesburg style Celia, Gareth's maid in Johannesburg Gareth and Gill's patio, Johannesburg Gareth and Gill's pool, Johannesburg Gareth, Gill and me in Johannesburg

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De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre

The De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre is located approximately 2 hours drive from Johannesburg. Captive breeding programmes are in place for threatened and endangered species. The 2 predominant animals at De Wildt are cheetahs and African wild dogs but there are several other species of animals and birds. The cheetahs are incredible and it was great to be able to get so close. I will not forget being inches away from a group of cubs as they lay in the sun purring contentedly and being able to stroke them through the wire fence.

De Wildt Cheetahs
Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa
Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah feeding time at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa
Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Gareth and Gill at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Cheetah cub at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa

De Wildt Wild Dogs
African wild dog at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa African wild dog at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa African wild dog at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa

Other animals from De Wildt
Crowned crane at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Nyala at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Vervet monkey at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Impala at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa Meerkat at the De Wildt Cheetah and Wildlife Centre near Johannesburg, South Africa

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Kruger National Park

From Jo'burg Gareth, Gill and I drove up to Kruger, which takes around 5 hours. We stayed at the Mahlangeni Safari Lodge at the southern end of Kruger near Crocodile Bridge. I was very impressed with the standard of accommodation and the game drives. For less than 800 Rand per night this place is great value and comes highly recommended. Well done Gareth for finding it! It was virtually a private tour as there were no other people staying at the lodge at that time. Just the three of us on a safari truck was ideal. I had the whole back seat to myself so it was easy to go from side to side taking photos. This has to be pretty damn close to my ideal way of spending a vacation - a bag full of camera equipment and an abundance of wildlife!

Mahlangeni Safari Lodge
Gareth and Gill at Mahlangeni Safari Lodge, Kruger National Park, South Africa Gill and me at Mahlangeni Safari Lodge, Kruger National Park, South Africa Dinner - bush style at Mahlangeni Safari Lodge, Kruger National Park, South Africa Lodge bedroom at Mahlangeni Safari Lodge, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Animals of the Kruger National Park

Kruger rules and regulations, Kruger National Park, South Africa

 Malaria warning and information, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Zebra, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Vervet monkey, Kruger National Park, South Africa

 Buffalo, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Impala, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Zebra, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Chacma baboon, Kruger National Park, South Africa

 Kudu, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Kudu, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Common waterbuck, Kruger National Park, South Africa

African elephant, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Giraffe, Kruger National Park, South Africa

 Warthog, Kruger National Park, South Africa African elephant, Kruger National Park, South Africa
Giraffe, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Hippo, Kruger National Park, South Africa

African elephant, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Wildebeest, Kruger National Park, South Africa

 African elephant, Kruger National Park, South Africa

Birds of the Kruger National Park
Lilac-breasted roller, Kruger National Park, South Africa Giant eagle owl, Kruger National Park, South Africa Hoopoe, Kruger National Park, South Africa Bennett's woodpecker, Kruger National Park, South Africa Martial eagle, Kruger National Park, South Africa

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Links and resources
Brenwin Guest House My accommodation in Cape Town
Die Dorpshuis My accommodation in Calitzdorp
gardenroute.co.za Garden Route, Cape and South Africa guide
go2africa.com African travel and safari specialists
Jay Torborg's home page An excellent site with superb photography recording Jay's African Safari
Kenjockity Guest House My accommodation in Hermanus
Mahlangeni Safari Lodge My accommodation at Kruger
Pumula Lodge My accommodation in Knysna
White Shark ecoventures Great white shark cage diving in Gansbaii